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RUNWAY REPORT: Dsquared/s/RTW/2013

24 Nov

RUNWAY REPORT: Dsquared/s/RTW/2013

MILAN By Nicole Phelps Dean and Dan Caten channeled an influential Peter Lindbergh Vogue shoot circa 1990 on their Spring runway.

You know the one—Naomi, Cindy, Linda, et al. vamping in motorcycle leather and miniskirts. The biker hats, the pearls and gold chains, the super-leggy silhouette—the look is so up the Catens’ street, it’s almost a surprise they haven’t been here before. Cartier and Chanel presumably won’t be thrilled that the Dsquared² boys have lifted their ultra-recognizable logo typefaces for T-shirts emblazoned with their last name.

And those quilted Coco-isms might prove problematic for them as well. But other than those instances, the runway was loaded with bankable merchandise of the kind that Dsquared² specializes in: shrunken leather jackets, even shrunken-er denim shorts with cheeky lace insets, an LBD with corset detailing, cropped schoolboy blazers, and a leopard-print party dress topped by bondage straps with hearts in place of O rings. All in all, a fun, sexy ride. | PHOTOS BY : Fillippo Fior

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RUNWAY REPORT: Versus Spring / Summer 2013 Milan

24 Nov

RUNWAY REPORT: Versus Spring / Summer 2013 Milan

MILAN
By Nicole Phelps

With the Gossip’s Beth Ditto belting her hit “Standing in the Way of Control” on a perch above the photographers’ pit at tonight’s Versus shebang, you half-wondered why all fashion shows aren’t like this: fast-paced, toe-tappingly upbeat, entertaining, fun. “Cartoon-y” and “toylike” were the two words Christopher Kane used backstage, while Donatella Versace ran out with the models in a pack behind her to party along to Ditto’s last song.

Kane had a point. Colors were Crayola box-bright, and the plastic chain links that trimmed the necklines and hems of 1960s-short dresses and decorated the straps of high-heel sandals had something Lego-like about them. And weren’t those oversize polka dots on that sleeveless shift with the patent mesh overlay borrowed from Twister? Shiny, laser-cut patent separates added a gloss of slickness, and sweaters lifted from the house’s nineties heyday gave a note of seriousness to what otherwise has to be Versace and Kane’s most playful Versus show yet. The overriding theme in Milan this week has been one of optimism, but so far no one has got the crowd as revved up as these two did.

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RUNWAY MAGAZINE | RUNWAY REPORT | VERSACE S/13

23 Nov

RUNWAY MAGAZINE | RUNWAY REPORT | VERSACE S/13

VERSACE | S | 2013

By Tim Blanks

The Versace woman has always been a creature of consummate self-control, a perfectly polished testament to the craft of the makeup artist, the hairdresser, and the designer who clothes her. So it was rather wonderful today to see that woman cram herself into a pickup with a gang of her girlfriends and head for the desert, Queens of the Stone Age blaring, with a shoulder bag of crinkled tie-dyed silks and a pair of jeans. We’ll also allow her a toothbrush, a hair dryer, and—because she is a V-Girl, after all—some heeled gladiators and a grunge goddess gown. But only if that’s tie-dyed too.

Donatella’s been riding a high/low wave since the coincidence of her collection for H&M and the reintroduction of Atelier Versace. Today, she remodeled Versace for the Coachella set. “Tailoring with a lingerie edge” was the anodyne inspiration claimed by the show notes. Yes, there were a few jackets, the oversize kind that are popularly known as boyfriend jackets, but they paled beside the lacy tops—and they were definitely more tops than dresses—which, with their crinkles and slashes and low-slung belts, had the carefree sensuality of festival gear. The casual almost-nudity of slashed ‘n’ laced skirts and slipdresses fitted right in. They demanded concentration, or luck, to avoid the kind of wardrobe malfunction that popped out at least once on today’s catwalk.

It wasn’t just Stevie Nicks on the soundtrack that cued a West Coast vibe. Striated colors made you think of the desert sands of Zabriskie Point, or a tequila sunrise, or the deep, warm blue of night skies over Cabo. It was refreshing to see the Versace palette shift from icy to organic. Even the Medusa was tie-dyed. So was the eveningwear, slit high on the thigh and fringed with metal, like a hula skirt for a new queen of the stone age. After all that, Donatella struck an unusually sober note when she took her bow in a black pantsuit. But her hair was newly tousled, like she was just back from a top-down road trip. “No, I did that years ago,” she said. “But I didn’t drive.” A meaningful look left the rest of that story to your imagination

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Happy Thanksgiving

22 Nov

Happy Thanksgiving

Runway Magazine
Runway UOMO
YOUNG 90210

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RUNWAY REPORT | Chanel TOP 10 COLLECTIONS | #4

19 Nov

RUNWAY REPORT | Chanel TOP 10 COLLECTIONS | #4

TOP 10 COLLECTIONS | #4 S|10|RTW | Good news for women looking for practical yet utterly polished clothes: Phoebe Philo’s back. Leather tees, high-waisted trousers, and a sophisticated new take on leotard dressing are the keys to her contemporary—and in a way, daring—brand of minimalism| Photo: Monica Feudi

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RUNWAY REPORT: TOP 10 Collections # 3 | CELINE

19 Nov

RUNWAY REPORT: TOP 10 Collections # 3 | CELINE

TOP 10 Collections # 3 | Christophe Decarnin found a way to put a new gloss on the tight, tattered, T&A formula he’s made his own—mixing tailcoats, army surplus shirts, and leather cargo pants with chain-mail minidresses and sequined loincloths. The look is so hot, it’s probably illegal in several states. | Photo: Monica Feudi

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PR for Designers, Models and Photographers

19 Nov

PR for Designers, Models and Photographers

Fashion Publicity
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RUNWAY REPORT | Top Ten Collections | #2 Balmain

17 Nov

RUNWAY REPORT |  Top Ten Collections | #2 Balmain

Top Ten Collections | #2 Balmain
BY: Marcio Madeira | Christophe Decarnin found a way to put a new gloss on the tight, tattered, T&A formula he’s made his own—mixing tailcoats, army surplus shirts, and leather cargo pants with chain-mail minidresses and sequined loincloths. The look is so hot, it’s probably illegal in several states.

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RUNWAY REPORT | Top Ten Collections | #1 Balenciaga

17 Nov

RUNWAY REPORT | Top Ten Collections | #1 Balenciaga

BY: Marcio Madeira | Clothes with a point of view What will get women back into the stores? Designers came up with a range of answers for Spring, lower price points being one of the most compelling. But this wasn’t a season of “safe clothes.”

There was less talk of “brand DNA,” and the best collections had a tangible sense of adventure. Representing some intriguing opposites (utility chic and 24-hour cocktail dressing, the city and the country, sport and lingerie dressing), here are RM’s favorites. | Saying au revoir to the eighties,

Nicolas Ghesquière went back to the future and the streets, arming his tribe of urban warriors with hooded vests, sporty skirts, and the sexiest leather jeans around—all spliced together in ways that defy both the imagination and the copy artists.

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RUNWAY TRENCH REPORT | 13

17 Nov

RUNWAY TRENCH REPORT | 13

RUNWAY REPORT | TREND REPORTS SHOP THE TREND: TRENCH COATS The closet favorite isn’t going anywhere. Whether you’re shopping for a classic or something to make a statement, now’s the time to make a move. BY KRISTEN SHIRLEY
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